1. Formula structure of shampoo
Surfactants, conditioners, thickeners, functional additives, flavors, preservatives, pigments, shampoos are physically mixed
2. Surfactant
Surfactants in the system include primary surfactants and co-surfactants
The main surfactants, such as AES, AESA, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, etc., are mainly used for foaming and cleaning hair, and the general addition amount is about 10~25%.
Auxiliary surfactants, such as CAB, 6501, APG, CMMEA, AOS, lauryl amidopropyl sulfobetaine, imidazoline, amino acid surfactant, etc., mainly function to assist foaming, thickening, foam stabilization, and reduce the main surface activity Stimulation, generally not more than 10%.
3. Conditioning agent
The conditioning agent part of the shampoo includes various cationic ingredients, oils, etc.
Cationic components are M550, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-57, stearamidopropyl PG-dimethylammonium chloride phosphate, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-32, palm Amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, cationic panthenol, quaternary ammonium salt-80, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, cationic guar gum, quaternized protein, etc., the role of cations It is adsorbed on the hair to improve the wet combability of the hair;
Oils and fats include higher alcohols, water-soluble lanolin, emulsified silicone oil, PPG-3 octyl ether, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, rape amidopropyl dimethylamine, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, glyceryl oleate , PEG-7 glycerin cocoate, etc., the effect is similar to that of cations, but it focuses more on improving the combability of wet hair, while cations generally focus more on improving the conditioning of hair after drying. There is a competitive adsorption of cations and oils on the hair.
4. Cellulose ether Thickener
Shampoo thickeners can include the following types: Electrolytes, such as sodium chloride, ammonium chloride and other salts, its thickening principle After adding electrolytes, the active micelles swell and the movement resistance increases. It is manifested as an increase in viscosity. After reaching the highest point, surface activity salts out and the viscosity of the system decreases. The viscosity of this kind of thickening system is greatly affected by temperature, and jelly phenomenon is prone to occur;
Cellulose ether : Such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, etc., which belong to cellulose polymers. This kind of thickening system is not greatly affected by temperature, but when the pH of the system is lower than 5, the polymer will be hydrolyzed , the viscosity drops, so it is not suitable for low pH systems;
High-molecular polymers: including various acrylic acid, acrylic esters, such as Carbo 1342, SF-1, U20, etc., and various high-molecular-weight polyethylene oxides, these components form a three-dimensional network structure in water, and the surface activity The micelles are wrapped inside, so that the system appears high viscosity.
Other common thickeners: 6501, CMEA, CMMEA, CAB35, lauryl hydroxy sultaine,
Disodium cocoamphodiacetate, 638, DOE-120, etc., these thickeners are very commonly used.
Generally, thickeners need to be coordinated to make up for their respective shortcomings.
5. Functional additives
There are many types of functional additives, the commonly used ones are as follows:
Pearlescent agent: ethylene glycol (two) stearate, pearlescent paste
Foaming agent: sodium xylene sulfonate (ammonium)
Foam stabilizer: polyethylene oxide, 6501, CMEA
Humectants: various proteins, D-panthenol, E-20 (glycosides)
Anti-Dandruff Agents: Campanile, ZPT, OCT, Triclosan, Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol, Guiperine, Hexamidine, Betaine Salicylate
Chelating agent: EDTA-2Na, etidronate
Neutralizers: citric acid, disodium hydrogen phosphate, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide
6. Pearlescent agent
The role of the pearlescent agent is to bring a silky appearance to the shampoo. The pearlescent of the monoester is similar to the strip-shaped silky pearl, and the pearl of the diester is the strong pearl similar to the snowflake. Diester is mainly used in the shampoo. , monoesters are generally used in hand sanitizers
Pearlescent paste is a pre-prepared pearlescent product, usually prepared with double fat, surfactant and CMEA.
7. Foaming and foam stabilizer
Foaming agent: sodium xylene sulfonate (ammonium)
Sodium xylene sulfonate is used in shampoo of AES system, and ammonium xylene sulfonate is used in shampoo of AESA. Its function is to accelerate the bubble speed of surfactant and improve the cleaning effect.
Foam stabilizer: polyethylene oxide, 6501, CMEA
Polyethylene oxide can form a layer of film polymer on the surface of the surfactant bubbles, which can make the bubbles stable and not easy to disappear, while 6501 and CMEA mainly enhance the strength of the bubbles and make them not easy to break. The function of the foam stabilizer is to prolong the foam time and enhance the washing effect.
8. Moisturizer
Moisturizers: including various proteins, D-panthenol, E-20 (glycosides), and starches, sugars, etc.
A moisturizer that can be used on the skin can also be used on the hair; the moisturizer can keep the hair combable, repair the hair cuticles, and keep the hair from losing moisture. Proteins, starches, and glycosides focus on repairing nutrition, and D-panthenol and sugars focus on moisturizing and maintaining hair moisture. The most common moisturizers used are various plant-derived proteins and D-panthenol, etc. .
9. Anti-dandruff and anti-itch agent
Due to metabolism and pathological reasons, the hair will produce dandruff and head itching. It is necessary to use shampoo with anti-dandruff and anti-itch function. In recent years, commonly used anti-dandruff agents include campanol, ZPT, OCT, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, and guabaline , Hexamidine, Betaine Salicylate
Campanola: the effect is average, but it is convenient to use, and it is usually used in conjunction with DP-300;
ZPT: The effect is good, but the operation is troublesome, which affects the pearlescent effect and stability of the product. It cannot be used with chelating agents such as EDTA-2Na at the same time. It needs to be suspended. Generally, it is mixed with 0.05%-0.1% zinc chloride to prevent discoloration.
OCT: The effect is the best, the price is high, and the product is easy to turn yellow. Generally, it is used with 0.05%-0.1% zinc chloride to prevent discoloration.
Dichlorobenzyl alcohol: strong antifungal activity, weak antibacterial activity, can be added to the system at high temperature but not easy for a long time, generally 0.05-0.15%.
Guiperine: completely replaces conventional anti-dandruff agents, quickly removes dandruff, and continuously relieves itching. Inhibit fungal activity, eliminate scalp cuticle inflammation, fundamentally solve the problem of dandruff and itching, improve the scalp microenvironment, and nourish hair.
Hexamidine: water-soluble broad-spectrum fungicide, killing all kinds of Gram-negative bacteria and Gram-positive bacteria, and the dosage of various molds and yeasts is generally added between 0.01-0.2%.
Betaine salicylate: It has antibacterial effect and is generally used for anti-dandruff and acne.
10. Chelating agent and neutralizing agent
Ion chelating agent: EDTA-2Na, used to chelate Ca/Mg ions in hard water, the presence of these ions will seriously defoam and make the hair not clean;
Acid-base neutralizer: citric acid, disodium hydrogen phosphate, some highly alkaline ingredients used in shampoo need to be neutralized with citric acid, at the same time, in order to maintain the stability of the system pH, some acid-base buffer may also be added Agents, such as sodium dihydrogen phosphate, disodium hydrogen phosphate, etc.
11. Flavors, preservatives, pigments
Fragrance: the duration of fragrance, whether it will change color
Preservatives: Whether it is irritating to the scalp, such as Kethon, whether it will conflict with the fragrance and cause discoloration, such as sodium hydroxymethylglycine, which will react with the fragrance containing citral to make the system turn red. The preservative commonly used in shampoos is DMDM -H, dosage 0.3%.
Pigment: Food-grade pigments should be used in cosmetics. Pigments are easy to fade or change color under light conditions and it is difficult to solve this problem. Try to avoid using transparent bottles or adding certain photoprotectants.
12. Shampoo production process
The production process of shampoo can be divided into three types:
Cold configuration, hot configuration, partial hot configuration
Cold blending method: all ingredients in the formula are water-soluble at low temperature, and cold blending method can be used at this time;
Hot blending method: if there are solid oils or other solid ingredients that need high temperature heating to dissolve in the formula system, the hot blending method should be used;
Partial hot mixing method: pre-heat a part of the ingredients that need to be heated and dissolved separately, and then add them to the whole system.